Presented at Paris Fashion Week, Yohji Yamamoto unveils a deconstructed chic 2017 spring/summer collection showcasing his aesthetics. This time around, the designer seemingly embraced his inner emo, dedicating this season to his “feelings,” a motif not unusual for the famously somber creative, who stated that during “my time in the fashion business, I’ve felt very alone.”
The presentation shown myriad spiked hairstyles, bondage wear, streaky make-up, combat boots and captain hats that strongly elicited one of the subculture’s founding icons, Siouxsie Soux (doubt this was intentional).The inspiration for the body wrapping, according to the designer, harked backed to a 1937 theater performance of L’Œdipe Roi (Oedipus Rex) by Jean Cocteau, where Coco Chanel costumed the actor’s body in white bandages (but Yamamoto is swapping the white for black, obviously).
Although the majority of the pieces highlight a monochromatic palette, a selection of garments are contrasted with vibrant red fabrics that add an eye-catching accent of color. Complementing the structured suits are billowing silhouettes, wide-legged overalls and asymmetrical dresses.