Just when the Fall 2016 runways were starting to look similiar, Kate and Laura Mulleavy came to shake things up with Rodarte. The Mulleavy sisters recently presented Rodarte fall 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week. Drawing on classic themes, like beauty, nature, and death, they brought a darkwood romance to the collection. Longtime Rodarte muse actress Kirsten Dunst sat front row, along with Tessa Thompson and Jennifer Jason Leigh. The mood of the show was cinematic as the Mulleavys said that the cafe in San Francisco where Francis Coppola wrote “The Godfather” is the inspiration for the collection.
The set was designed by Bureau Betak, which comprised of pink and red fluorescent lights, mirrors, pile of dirt and bunches of flowers. When the show was about to start, the venue started to get covered in smoke, startling the crowd until Rodarte’s PR assured guests that it was entirely planned. When the mood went calm, model Kiki Willems opened the show in a black patent leather jacket and lacy skirt. In case you were wondering, minimalism has never been their thing, the collection riffed on their longstanding characteristics, like sea ruffles, crystals and dark romance, while adding some new ideas, such as slick leather outerwear into the mix.
A number of lace dresses were hand-beaded with intricate floral and geometric patterns that sparkled under the lights. There was also dresses layered in ruffles and outfitted with multicolor goat fur. The color palette consisted of mostly black and white mixed with some dusty pink and burgundy. Real flower jewelry that was made in collaboration with florist Joseph Free adorned models’ hair, as well as their ears and arms. Each girls sported a dark berry lip, lending an ethereal looks a bit of witchy toughness.
Photos via Vogue