In a surreal landscape of white bubbly foam mountains created by set designer Gary Card, NEWGEN-sponsored designer Marta Jakubowski hosted her first London Fashion Week presentation of her fall 2016 collection. The theme may have been about the strength of women, but this power was translated in the genderfluid language of our times, with both male and female models presenting the clothes. “Oh yes, it’s boys and girls — most of them are my friends, people who inspire me,” Marta says of the casting.
Sticking to her dramatic signature palette of red, black, white and pinstripes, which is a signifier of power, the RCA graduate developed the fluid, cutout tailoring she debuted in a group show last season. “The clothes are for everyone who’s feeling confident to wear them,” she confirms. It pays to linger on the details at a Marta Jakubowski show, as tailored, sleeveless jackets fold origami-like into perfectly wide-cut trousers to create a louche suit-like jumpsuit. A black hoodie is slashed at the sides, the hood drawn tighter with long, trailing laces. Gloves are fashioned from long knitted rectangles that extend further than the fingers. “It’s about body extension,” Marta explains. The looks are finished with silver body jewelery wrapping unexpectedly around waists, arms and necks, creations by Juliette Van de Kerchove.
Photos via Highsnobiety