The 8th season of London Collections Mens, the twice yearly men’s fashion week since 2012, begun the global men’s wear procession. It started so early in 2016 at Jan 8, and has wrapped up last Monday. The show has now kicked off the fall 2016 season for the menswear market. According to The New York Times, this season was the largest LCM yet with an additional day on the schedule, 170 participating designers and a noticeably growing interest from international buyers and editors. It’s no surprise considering the booming menswear business as of late. This event has become a favourite among menswear enthusiasts with its distinctive combination of streetwear-inspired experimentalism and juxtaposed Savile Row tailoring. Heritage brands rubbed shoulders with emerging designers, and here’s the roundup of what all the fuss was about.
A new generation of radical British menswear designers have taken center stage including most notably J.W Anderson, Craig Green and duo Agi & Sam. These contemporary creatives are more than just trendsetters — they are thought of as leaders. Through applications of technology, social media and a liberal sense of fearlessness, they help redefining the very parameters of menswear and its role in the fashion industry at-large.
Case in point, J.W Anderson, menswear designer of the year from 2014’s British Fashion Awards, streamed his collection of cropped jackets, bustier, a unique snail deatils and satin pyjamas live via gay dating app Grindr on LCM’s opening day. It was thought of as a brilliant fashion public relation move that landed Anderson an international media coverage. Although, LCM was a men’s fashion week, the girls are also allowed to walk the runway. From Agi & Sam show to Jourdan Dunn closing Moschino, fashion houses were capitalizing on having females on the runway to be adorned in next season’s womenswear. The gender-bending trend in menswear does not look like it will be stopping anytime soon. From crooped floral print jackets at JW Anderson to gliterry boys at Xander Zhou to the avant garde Craig Green collection, the male and female binary has never been less in vogue.
While a few shows included female models, another thing happens at this year’s LCM. Nobody could have predicted legendary British musician and fashion icon,David Bowie was going to pass away on the last day of LCM. Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, were quick to honor him in the presentation where a timely glitter make up trend made for a subtle Bowie. The tribute was an emotionally touching reprieve from the relentlessly fast-paced coverage of fashion week. Beyond its famous progeny, LCM has grown to be reflective of the city of London itself — a place that is historically, culturally and geographically central in the world. From the African-meets-70s-inspired designs of Wales Bonner to Jeremy Scott’s shameless American pop cultural at Moschino, the event was a swirling of British and international talent that beautifully mirrors every day life in the Capital.