Balenciaga just held its first ever men’s runway show in Paris, after 99-year in history. Gvasalia proceeded to apply his own touch to the 2017 spring/summer collection, which draw inspirations from the archive of Cristobal Balenciaga.
The show was held in the rooftop atrium of Paris’s Lycée Saint-Louis-de-Gonzague. Whereas Gvasalia’s first women’s collection for Balenciaga was about the curve, this men’s collection seemed to be about the straight line. The silhouettes were intense and angular, but the Georgian designer's commitment to tailoring was visible in the show's heavy use of coats, suit jackets and high-waisted pleated pants. Tailor jackets were rigidly boxy, with exaggerated shoulders and linear silhouettes. Several concepts carried over from the Fall 2016 womenswear show, like the beige plaids adorned several suits and the oversize tote bags slung over models’ shoulders. What’s new from this show was the men in heels. Gvasalia’s guys wore stacked-heel boots in a variety of colors, and snake leather skin motif that accented their cropped trousers and shorts.
The through lines between Gvasalia’s Balenciaga and Vetements, the cult popular line he co-launched in 2014, unfortunately is heavily seen. Vetements’s fall 2016 collection also included a mixture of boxy shoulders, thight and intentionally awkward tailoring. And the branded baseball hats in Gvasalia’s men’s show for Balenciaga were pure Vetements, because it’s like a purchase for high street style fixtures. If this is the sort of masculinity we can expect from Balenciaga’s menswear collection under Gvasalia, well his new aesthetic for Balenciaga marks a huge change in the style of the brand. Check out the runway show below.
Photos by Giovanni Giannoni via Hypebeast